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This essay is part of What to Eat on a Burning Planet, a series exploring bold ideas to secure our food supply. Read more about this project in a note from Eliza Barclayphl63, Opinion’s climate editor.
No politician wants to be the one to break the news that sooner rather than later, for the health of the planet, most of us are going to have to learn to eat less meat — a whole lot less red meat than what the average American consumes. This won’t be fixed by a few meatless Mondays.
We have a deep fatalism about our diets, and the conventional wisdom says that the only way to persuade the carnivorous to eat less meat is to offer them a faux alternative, such as lab-grown meat or a vegan substitute like Beyond Meat.
However, no one is born loving hot dogs or disliking broccoli and Brazil nuts; our food preferences are learned. This fact carries with it a wonderful seed of hope for changing diets for the better by helping people learn new tastes. When it comes to food, pleasure is what changes the world, because few people make a habit of eating foods they dislike.
Think of the plethora of dishes, from avocado toast to kale salad, that have entered the American mainstream despite being virtually unknown a generation ago. I sometimes wonder how baffled my Dorito-eating younger self would be by middle-aged me, who would rather eat some gorgeous roasted oyster mushrooms or a vibrant plate of charred asparagus than anything from McDonald’s. Don’t get me wrong. I still love a roast chicken or some barbecue ribs. But I don’t love them more than I do a silky eggplant sandwich or a spicy cauliflower shawarma.
What would it take to encourage Americans to adopt more sustainable tastes? Telling people that they are wrong to enjoy eating cheese or candy or bacon is clearly not the way to go. The stomach — like the heart — knows what it knows. A far more productive approach would be to help people discover new preferences for some of the foods that should play bigger roles in our diets.
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