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New Variations on a Classic Italian BreadImage
Ten years ago, a colleague told the chef Nancy Silverton, now 70, that for really great focaccia, she should go to Recco, a small town on Italy’s Ligurian coast. Until then, she had thought of focaccia as, by definition, a thick, fluffy bread leavened with yeast. But at Recco’s Manuelina restaurant, she experienced a version made from delicate, flaky pastry layered with melted cheese; it was so large that it required a separate side table. Back in California — armed with 14-inch copper pans from Piemonte — she attempted to recreate the recipe and, after many rounds of trial and error with her mozzarella maker, finally arrived at the light, gooey variation that’s now on the menu at her Los Angeles restaurant Chi Spacca.
In the time since, focaccia di Recco has proliferated stateside. In 2017, Silverton brought her recipe to the San Francisco restaurant Cotogna for a pop-up, and Cotogna’s chef-owner Michael Tusk “took the Recco and ran with it,” he says. Tusk, 60, says that he likes the “textural bomb” of warm stracchino cheese paired with the crispy top and softer bottom layer. Most of the year, he finishes it simply, with flaky sea salt and a mild Taggiasca olive oil from Liguria but, in the fall, he also shaves white truffles on top. To keep up with demand, he recently ordered an additional oven and will soon be offering a focaccia mail-order kit in collaboration with the cookware brand Hestan Culinary.
Freedom Rains, 48, the chef at San Francisco’s La Connessa, is also drawn to what he calls the “deceptively simple” bread and has served it ever since the restaurant opened last fall. And in New York, Roberto Caporuscio, 63, the Italian-born owner of Kesté, has added focaccia col formaggio (technically only the focaccia in Recco can be focaccia di Recco) to his menu, as well. “In Italy there’s a lot of different focaccia,” he says. “But focaccia di Recco is the most unique.” — Martha Cheng
Where to Go in Bangkok’s Bang Rak and Talad Noi NeighborhoodsImageAt Bangkok’s ATT 19 shop and gallery, a Chinese wedding bed from the Qing dynasty on display.Credit...Courtesy of ATT 19Charoen Krung Road, Bangkok’s oldest paved thoroughfare, runs for five miles along the east bank of the Chao Phraya River. Soon after it was constructed in the 1860s, it became a central artery of the city, eventually linking the Bang Rak neighborhood and other commercial subdistricts. But over time, the shop houses along the road and its side streets became run down as development spread to other parts of the city.
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